Avoiding Excess

We love wine.  We love tasting it, drinking it with meals, talking about it, reading about it and writing about it.  But we can’t overlook the fact that wine is a product that contains alcohol.  So when people go wine tasting, they need to be aware of the effect that the alcohol is having and will have on them.

Photo courtesy of Metro Parent.

Here are some tips that can help wine tasters to avoid excess when they are visiting wineries.

  • Know your capacity and limit the number of wineries you visit in a day accordingly..  Before the era of seated tastings, visitors could step up to a tasting room bar and sample only one or two wines that they were interested in.  Now, especially with the higher cost of wine tasting, each winery tends to serve more.  Take that into account in choosing your destinations and keeping the number within a reasonable range.
  • Sip, don’t drink.  There is probably no more important advice to wine tasters than this.  If you are wine tasting, you only need a sip or two to know what a wine is like and if it’s for you. Oh, there’s still wine in the glass?  Pour it out.  That’s what those buckets are for.  Professional wine people don’t even swallow; they put some in their mouths, taste it and spit it out.  They have to, because they taste so many in a single session.  Learn from the pros: You’re there to taste, not drink. 
  • Share a tasting.  A good way to limit your intake without cutting into your tasting pleasure is to share the wine.  The server will not mind you asking just for one glass even if you are two people, saying that you will share the tasting.  After all, you are going wine tasting not wine drinking.  Believe us, no one will care that you are being prudent and you will appreciate your time in Wine Country all the more.
  • Consider in-town tasting.  There are excellent locales for wine tasting (such as Santa Barbara, Montepulciano or Los Olivos) where you can visit a tasting room, walk to the next and all the nexts after that, finally walking back to your hotel.  You can slacken your inhibitions a bit because you won’t be driving.  Of course, a day in town followed by a drive back home doesn’t work.
  • Let someone else drive.  If, in an honest analysis, you realize that almost any amount of wine is going to impact you too adversely to drive, plan in advance not to get behind the wheel.  Maybe there’s someone in your party who won’t taste and can be the chauffeur.  Or you could take a tour.  In lots of places, you can call for an Uber or you can hire a car and a driver for the day.  Just don’t be a risk to yourself and others around you.

France Isn’t California

If you’re an American who enjoys going on wine tasting trips, there are many places to go in your own country, but unquestionably the premier destination is California.  On the other hand, if you are looking to have a wine tasting adventure abroad, the first place that generally comes to mind is France.  At a very elementary level, the experiences are the same.  You visit a winery or a tasting room; they pour you some wine; and you taste it.  The resemblances end there.

Map courtesy of About-France.com.

California’s wine regions extend from Temecula in the south, through the Central Coast, to Napa and Sonoma counties and up to Mendocino and beyond.  Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay are king and queen, thought there are sections that specialize in Pinot Noir, Zinfandel and Syrah.  While there is some regional variation, each winery offers a range of wines from different grapes.

In France, almost every sector grows its own distinct grapes, by law.  Whatever variation you’ll find in a given winery is different levels of quality of wines from the same grapes.  So, if you’re used to wine tasting in California, here are some tips for tasting in France.

  • Choose regions with the type of wine you like.  This is as simple as choosing between red and white wine.  Let’s say you’re starting in Paris.  Go east for Champagne and further to drink Chardonnay in Chablis and even further for Riesling in Alsace.  If you want reds, head to Burgundy in the east (where there’s plenty of Chardonnay as well) or south to Bordeaux or Provence.
  • Don’t just go to the most famous regions.  There are so many high quality winemaking regions in France that if you bypass Chablis for white wines and go to the Loire Valley south of Paris, you’ll do quite well with Vouvray and Sancerre.  If you go to the Southwest or Languedoc for red wines, you won’t taste a premier cru, but you won’t face the crowds and the costs either.  Think of it as wine tasting in Santa Barbara instead of Napa Valley.
  • Most places don’t have seated tastings.  At the same time, you will often need reservations to visit wineries in Bordeaux or Champagne.  In much of France, you can just pull up to a vineyard and ask the person in the tasting room (often the owner) to taste their wines.  If you can remember the olden days in California’s premier wine areas, much of France’s wineries are like what that was, but not anymore.
  • If you stick with a sub-region, wineries are fairly close to one another.  In California, even if you stick to a specific AVA, say Russian River within Sonoma County, you’ll do a lot of driving.  If you just do Pommard or Pauillac, you won’t need to go very far from one châteaux to another.
  • Oh, yeah, they speak French.  If you do, too, then visiting is a breeze.  These days, most French people can speak at least a little English so you can get by.  A lot can be accomplished by pointing and smiling.  Frequent use of the words s’il vous plait and merci is a good idea.

Wine Tasting in Restaurants

The best way to get to know the wines of any section of Wine Country is to travel there and taste those wines in view of the vineyards.  Essentially, that’s what Power Tasting is all about.  But most of us don’t have the wherewithal to jet off around the globe, just to check out the latest trends and vintages. 

So, you can go to your local shops and buy a bottle from a region you may have read about.  There are a number of problems with that approach.  You’re at the mercy of the distributors who supply that shop and may not have a good selection from the region you’re interested in.  (Since this issue is focused on Austrian wines, let’s use that country as our example.)  The wine store may have two Grüner Veltliners, a Blaufränkisch and that’s it.  You don’t know too much about these wines either, so it’s a crap shoot that you’re not likely to win.

Wallse in New York, our favorite Austrian restaurant.  Photo courtesy of Wikipedia.

Another alternative is to visit a restaurant that specializes in the food from the region you’re interested in.  It surely has some of the wines you’re interested in and someone who knows a bit about them.  But it’s not that straightforward, either.  So here are a few tips for doing your wine tasting in a restaurant.

  • Choose the right cuisine.  This should be obvious, but it’s worth stressing.  If you don’t enjoy the food, you probably won’t be thrilled with the wine either, no matter how well-chosen the list.  So if wiener schnitzel and goulash aren’t your thing, maybe wine tasting in an Austrian restaurant won’t work out well for you.
  • Sit at the bar.  Even if you do like the cuisine, it’s a bit much to have to pay for a meal just to sample the wines.  Most restaurants have a by-the-glass list; this is a good way to take a preliminary tour across the grapes and vintages that are made in the restaurant’s native country.  There are some drawbacks to this approach, however.  The wines on the by-the-glass list are generally not the best and are often among the least expensive of their types.  So while you may taste a broader variety, you may not get to sample the qualities that are associated with a particular type of wine.
  • Don’t taste alone.  This is good advice for wine tasting in general, but where you’re interested in an introduction to the variety of a particular region, you shouldn’t be knocking back full glasses, much less whole bottles.  Of course, those quantities are how restaurants sell wine, so if you’re with someone with whom you’re comfortable sharing, you’ll try more and drink less.
  • Get help.  If you don’t know anything about the wines or the labels, ask the sommelier or the bartender for the one wine that would serve as a good introduction to what that country produces.  It’s a good question, not easy to answer.  (Could you pick just one wine that typifies California, for instance?)  The sommelier might be able to give you a few sips to help him or her understand your taste in wine, thereby giving you a broader sample right up front.  More important, you’ll get your feet – er, your lips – wet right at the start.
  • You can come back.  If you find you like what you’ve tried, you can always dine or drink at that restaurant again.  And if you are tasting at a restaurant far from home, you’ll have a basis for sampling at some other restaurant near you.

The Wine Tasting Life Cycle

There is a cycle to life from infancy to youth to adulthood to old age.  In information technology, we speak of a systems development life cycle.  The Museum of Modern Art in New York recently presented “Life Cycles: The Materials of Contemporary Design”.  Well, there’s a life cycle for wine tasting – at least for wine tasting visits – that enthusiasts ought to think about.  Here are the phases of that cycle.

  • Anticipation.  For us, we start looking forward to our next visit to Wine Country almost as soon as we return home from the last one.  Of course, Wine Country is a large place, so we first have to decide where to go next.  We generally try to go to California at least once a year, but that state is a large place with many wine-tasting destinations itself, so we have to choose. 
  • Planning.  Once that decision is made, we have to plan our next visit.  If we’re going to a place we’ve been before, do we return to old favorites or try to find new ones?  If we’re heading to somewhere new, we have to study maps and lists of wineries, most of which are just names to us.  In that case, we need to consult the internet for reviews, recommendations and some descriptions of the wines and wineries in the region we are to visit.
  • Tasting.  This is the best phase of the life cycle but, alas, the shortest (unless you are a professional wine taster).  So we savor every moment of it.  Everything tastes a little better when we look at a vineyard while we sip, but we think we retain enough objectivity to recognize quality from plonk.  If we’ve done a good enough job in the planning phase, there isn’t any poor wine at all.
  • Remembering.  This is the longest phase.  Some people – not us – have good enough taste memory that they can precisely recall what they tasted.  We rely on the bottles we shipped home, the clubs we’ve joined, the wines that we order in restaurants and a general recollection of what we liked and what we didn’t. 
  • Sharing.  A corollary to remembering is sharing our memories.  We have some friends who are interested, but we recognize that most people don’t care about the interesting Pinot Noir we tried in some faraway place that they’ll never see.  Of course, sharing is what Power Tasting is all about, so we hope you enjoy our memories.

And so it starts over again, as is the nature of cycles.  Every wine tasting trip is unique, even if we return to the same regions and wineries repeatedly.  Sometimes a wine tasting trip is akin to visiting family and old friends.  There are few surprises but there are always changes, some subtle and some rather more extensive.  As with wine, there are excellent years and less good ones.  (Rarely are there truly bad ones.)  Then there is the excitement of visiting new friends, who over time become old ones.  Yet another cycle.

Discovering New Places

There are two kinds of places: those you know and those you don’t.  And every place you do know was new to you at one time.  And some of those places you don’t know make wine, some of which you don’t know anything about either.  This was our situation when we set off to visit the Santa Rita Hills, but the same could be said for our first times in any of the world’s winemaking regions.

We had a great time that day, as we have had on numerous other occasions when we have discovered new corners of Wine Country.  There are certain tips that should be considered if you are going wine tasting somewhere you haven’t been before. We have written before about planning for such a trip, but these tips are about maximizing your pleasure while you’re there.

The Santa Rita Hills.  Photo courtesy of Wine Spectator.

  • Getting there and coming back are parts of the trip.  Pay some attention to the scenery, the homes, the stores, even the industrial sections.  (Of course, pay more attention to the road, if you’re the driver.)  The places you pass are the places where the wine people live.  Part of the pleasure of visiting Wine Country rather than opening bottles at home is to get a sense of the people who live there, not just tasting the wine.
  • Geeting a little lost is okay.  The only way you can have serendipity is if things don’t quite go as planned.  Note that we say, “a little lost”.  You might discover a great little winery just down the wrong lane.  But if you find yourself on the highway with no vineyards in sight, maybe it’s a good idea to turn around.
  • Factor in the weather.  In some ways the coldest, nastiest months are the best time to visit someplace you’re already familiar with.  There are no crowds and tasting rooms have lots of space for walk-ins.  If one of those months is when you are discovering a new place is in, say, January, make the most of it.  Snow on the vines can make a pretty sight.  Of course, you’d rather be there when the sun is bright and fruit hangs from the vines, so make every minute count at those times. 
  • Open yourself to that particular experience.  There’s no need to compare what you are seeing to what you have seen before.  The Santa Rita Hills, for example, have their own beauty just as does Chianti or the Barossa Valley or St. Emilion or… Enjoying what you see and taste for its own merits will give you more pleasure than thinking that somewhere else is better.
  • Think about how you will tell the folks back home about your visit.  Attempting to verbalize what you are seeing, feeling, tasting and doing helps to lock all those things into your memory.  It is certainly the technique we use in writing the articles in Power Tasting.  Try it out when you’re doing something fun in your own neighborhood.  You’ll see how much more vivid it makes every fun thing you do.

Comparing French Wine Regions

If someone were to ask, “Where should I go to taste the best California wines?” most of us Americans would probably point the questioner to the Napa Valley.  But if that question was applied to France, the only reasonable answer is “It depends”. 

Virtually every part of France produces wine.  Burgundy is renowned for wines made from Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.  In the region around the city of Bordeaux, the grapes are Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Semillon.  The Rhône Valley produces Grenache, Syrah, Roussanne and Marsanne grapes.  Which is the best?  Well, it depends on what you like.

The town of Gaillac in Southwest France.  Photo courtesy of Ville de Gaillac.

And we could complicate matters by pointing to Riesling and Gewurztraminer in Alsace, Gaillac (made of Duras and Fer grapes) in the Southwest and Malbec in Cahors (known locally as Côt).  If all of this is confusing, it needn’t be.  Winemaking in France arose from many different histories and ecosystems.  If you’d like to travel around France, just enjoy whatever you find that’s produced locally.

We Americans are used to a lot of these different grapes grown in the same general vicinity.  (Well, maybe not Duras or Fer.)  But the differences are not as deeply rooted in the culture of each location.  So if you’re wine tasting in France, keep a few things in mind.

  • There are laws in France requiring certain regions to make wine from certain grapes, and in certain blends, if they want  to be able to claim AOC (appellation d’origine contrôlée) status.  So, while you will find some Cabernet Sauvignon in Russian River, you won’t be able to do the same in the Burgundy’s Côte d’Or, for example.
  • There are regions where vignerons (French for winemakers) grow the “wrong” grapes.  For example, Château Canet in Minervoix makes Merlot and Malbec (but can’t label them Minervoix, because different grapes are required there).  For another example, Mas de Gourgonier in Les Baux de Provence has a Cabernet Sauvignon/Syrah blend, which is fine in Australia but not in France.  If you don’t get hung up on the rules, you can enjoy some interesting alternatives while you are in various parts of France.
  • You can take a chance with some grapes you’ve never heard of.  We’ve already mentioned the virtually unknown grapes in Gaillac wine, which is readily available in Toulouse.  There’s Melon grapes in the Jura mountains, Auxerrois in Alsace or Chasselas in the Savoie.  You may never get another chance to taste wines made from these grapes, so if you’re in the area, give them a try. 
  • On the other hand, you might find a familiar wine by a different name.  In the 1860s, Francois Durif, a French botanist, had a vineyard growing Peloursin and Syrah.  The two cross-pollinated and he found himself with a different grape entirely.  He made wine from it and named it after himself.  If you happen to find a bottle of Durif, it may seem familiar, because in the US we call it Petite Sirah.

The overall messages are that a) If you travel in France you’ll encounter great wine wherever you go.  b) Enjoy what each region is famous for, but keep your mind (and your mouth) open for new and unexpected experiences.

Too Many Tasting Rooms?

As reported elsewhere in this issue, there are 25 wine tasting rooms in Santa Barbara.  If you live there or nearby, you can take it easy on a weekend afternoon, stop in one or two of them, have lunch, visit the sights and head home.  But for those of us for whom a visit to Santa Barbara is either a vacation or the extension of some other trip, we don’t have the luxury of trying lots of wineries over an extended period of time.  Whatever wineries we’re going to stop at, we’re going to have to visit over just a few days.

The bar of the tasting room at Happy Canyon Vineyard.

So many wineries, so little time.

Here are a few tips for optimizing your time, in Santa Barbara or any other in-town tasting destination.

  • Start with a winery you know.  At the very least, you’ll be assured of finding at least one spot where the wines are familiar to you and, we assume, that you like.  For example, we began our most recent excursion at Au Bon Climat, where we have been before and whose wines we often buy.  And then the big question: We asked our server where else she would recommend in the area.  Her tastes might not be the same as ours (they weren’t) but at least we weren’t picking places at random.
  • Leave some time for serendipity.  Now for the contrary advice.  If you are in a region where all or most of the wines are unknown to you, pick one and try it out.  So, for instance, we were at that point in the day when we’d ask ourselves, “One more or call it a day?”  Opting for the first alternative, we passed Longoria on State, which has more of a vibe of a night club than a tasting room.  We enjoyed it greatly and will publish a review in a future issue.
  • Too many is too much.  Just because there are ten tasting rooms within three blocks of each other doesn’t mean you have to try them all.  In fact, if you did try ten in a day you’d be a menace to your own health and to those around you.  For goodness sake, don’t get behind the wheel of a car.  Or jaywalk, for that matter.  Even if you’re walking from place to place, set a limit on how many tasting rooms you’ll enter and the stick to your intentions.
  • Enjoy the ambience as well as the wine.  Whether you’re relaxing in a well-appointed room, such as at Happy Canyon Vineyard, soaking up the sun on a terrace or partying in the Funk Zone, you don’t have to bolt as much wine as you can as fast as you’re able.  The whole premise of Power Tasting is that the experience of wine tasting can be as important as the wines themselves.
  • Take advantage of the rest of what the city or town has to offer.  Yes, you’re there for wine tasting, but have a nice lunch and see the sights.  And don’t soak up so much alcohol during the day that you haven’t got the room for a good bottle of a local wine with your dinner, if you’re staying over.

Solo Tasting

Tasting wine all by yourself isn’t that much fun.  There’s no one to exult with when you discover an unknown gem.  Or sneer at a loser.  Or just keep you company.  And wine tasting alone at home leads to all kinds of problems.  Still, there are times when you’re traveling alone and you’re in a place where vineyards are nearby.  In some cases, you may be in a place where you are already familiar with the wines, so passing up a tasting trip may be easy to accept.  But if you are in a distant, previously unvisited location you may feel that you simply must take advantage of the occasion.  So if you may be considering a solo wine tasting adventure, here are some things to consider.

Photo courtesy of Waiheke Island Tours

  • Try not to go alone.  On a business trip, there may be a client who would go with you.  Or a fellow conventioneer.  Or a relative you’ve been meaning to call anyway.  If you are organizing a meeting, you might add on a wine tasting day, for team-building purposes. Before you leave home, give some thought to who you might meet.  Only when you’ve exhausted all the other possibilities should you think of the logistics of tasting by yourself.
  • Take a tour.  We don’t often recommend wine tasting tours.  In general, they go to the wineries that are convenient, that allow large groups or are highly commercial.  Rarely will you encounter the top vineyards in the area you’re visiting.  But they know where they’re going and they do the driving.  If you have no particular knowledge of the region and its wines, everything you taste will be new to you anyway.  Tour companies rarely advertise where they stop, but if they do feature small groups (not a 50-passenger bus) and knowledgeable guides, they’re more likely to provide better quality.
  • Take a taxi.  You can ask a driver how much he would charge for an extended ride.  You probably want to have a map and choose a few wineries in advance, so the driver can know where you want to go.  In general, ask for a half-day price.  Even if you plan on being out for a day, it’s best to plan for a shorter trip and ask for more time than the reverse.  Either way, it can be expensive.  But getting behind the wheel yourself in an area unknown to you, with alcohol to be added, may not be any bargain.  You really don’t want to deal with foreign police or worse, be involved in an accident. 
  • Limit your consumption.  It’s best not to drink too much, no matter who’s driving.  Don’t embarrass yourself in front of a cabbie or a tour guide.  And if you decide to drive, prudence is a necessity.  So sip sparingly; don’t gulp.  Use the pour buckets.  Only ask to try wines you are more likely to enjoy rather than everything on the list.
  • Talk to the people you encounter.  It’s always more fun to share an experience, even if you’re sharing it with strangers.  Engage with the person serving you.  In most places, the servers speak at least some English, as is likely the case with the other passengers on the bus.  And if you want to get to where you want to go, make certain you can talk with the taxi driver.

Choosing Where to Go

Sometimes your destination for wine tasting is chosen for you.  If you have a business trip to San Francisco, you may want to add on a day or two of visiting wineries.  You’re most likely to decide to go to Napa Valley or Sonoma County, if only because they are the closest.  Similarly, if you are just looking for a pleasant day in the country – with wine of course – you’ll drive to the winemaking area nearest your home.  So, for example, we New Yorkers head out to Long Island’s North Fork.

But sometimes, your objective is to take a wine tasting trip, without a particular destination in mind.  How do you select the region of Wine Country to visit?

Tuscany in September.

  • Is wine tasting the only objective?  If it is, then you want to go to an area that has many vineyards open to the public, where the quality is well known and accommodations are easy to find.  Once again, NapaNoma suggests itself, but so does Bordeaux or Tuscany or the Rioja.  That’s different than a Paris vacation with a day out in Champagne or the Loire Valley.  If everyone in your party loves wine, the first option makes some sense.  But if you have teetotalers or teenagers with you, maybe you should only inflict wine on them for a day.
  • Would you prefer a new experience or would you like to re-visit favorite places?  We can never get too much of wineries in some of our favorite valleys, Napa and the Southern Rhône.  We go back as often as we can, given available time and budget.  But California’s Central Coast or the Northern Rhône, where we have not travelled to as frequently, also have their allure.  And we’ve not yet tasted wine in Switzerland’s Dôle or Austria’s Burgenland.  Maybe this upcoming trip is when someday becomes now.

Carneros, on the Napa County side.

  • What kind of wine would you like to try for several days in a row?  We appreciate a cold glass of Gewürztraminer on a hot summer day, but we’re not up for a week of it.  So while we have tasted wines in Alsace, it was only briefly.  At the other extreme, maybe the 16% alcoholic wines of Paso Robles are too much for you this time around.  Ah, yes, Pinot Noir would be perfect!  Now you only have to choose among Burgundy, Carneros, Los Olivos and Santa Barbara, to name a few possibilities.
  • When do you want to go?  Power Tasting has long recommended that you avoid the most popular destinations on weekends.  But some of the best wineries in certain regions are only open Thursdays through Sundays.  For instance, we have experienced this in Paso Robles and the Santa Rita Hills.  Time of year also matters.  If all you’re interested in is the wines, then there’s no problem making a trip in the depths of winter.  Many California wineries release their wines in February, so that might attract you.  But if you want to see the vines with dense coverage, you need to go in the summer.  And if you want to see the harvest, you have to be in Wine Country between August and October.  (Unless you want to go to the southern hemisphere, when February through April is the right time for you.)

Tasting to Buy

There are a lot of reasons to go wine tasting, ranging from a pleasant day in the country to serious connoisseurship.  In some instances, the reason may be (or at least include) the specific intent to buy a certain wine or type of wine.  Of course, we usually buy a few bottles from many of the wineries we visit on any given trip, but there are also times that we’ve been specifically looking to buy a particular varietal or a blend. 

Sometimes the objective is obvious: If we’re in Burgundy, we’re going to buy wines made from either Pinot Noir or Chardonnay, because that’s what they make.  But for us Americans, we’re used to tasting at wineries where as many as a dozen types of wine are on offer.  If we are intent on filling a hole in our wine collection while we’re out tasting, we could just rely on the luck of the draw.  But we have found that following the tips we give below, we’ve been more successful in finding what we were looking for.

Photo courtesy of Kreglinger Wine Estates.

  • Be as specific as possible as to what you’re looking for.  If you start out thinking, “I’d like to buy some white wine”, don’t worry, you’ll find it everywhere.  That’s not the same as looking for a certain style.  Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon and Chenin Blanc are all whites but with very different flavor profiles.  So before you leave home, consider what you like, what you’re likely to serve it with and how soon you intend to drink it.  If you trying to buy, say, a flowery white with lots of fruit and a hint of sweetness, then you can buy accordingly.
  • It’s like going to a wine shop, except it isn’t.  At the store, all you can do is look at bottles and ask the salesperson for advice.  At a winery or a formal tasting, you can try before you buy.  That’s a plus.  But you probably would never go to ten wine shops to buy ten bottles to try at home.  On a wine tasting trip, you are going to taste the type of wine you’re looking for, then another an hour later and two more the next day.  Are you enough of an expert taster that you can remember all of the ones you’ve tasted and choose the best?  And will you want to drive back to the winery you visited yesterday to buy the one you remember you liked best?
  • Improve your odds by choosing the right wineries to visit.  As noted, you’re likely to encounter many different grapes and styles, all at the same winery.  A little homework before you set off on your trip will guide you to the places where it’s more probable that you’ll find what you want.  If a particular winery has six single vineyard Zinfandels and, oh yes, a Chardonnay, you have less of a chance if it’s a white wine you’re intent on buying.  Yes, there are exceptions and you should take advantage of them if you encounter them, but don’t bet on it.