In the center of the Southern Rhône winemaking region lies a rather sleepy little Provençal village called Vacqueyras (pronounced VA-kay-rass). [Yes, in Provence they often pronounce the final “s”. One might think it’s just to confuse the Anglophones.] It wouldn’t exist, at least as it is in our times, if it were not for wine. The Gauls made wine there; so did the Romans; winemaking was documented in the 15th century; and the wines of Vacqueyras were recognized as an AOC in 1990.
The village of Vacqueyras. Photo courtesy of Vaucluse-Visites-Virtuel.
So why visit a sleepy little village? There are a number of reasons. For one, nearly all the little villages in this Côte du Rhône region are rather somnolent. You need to go to the nearby cities of Avignon or Orange to get a little action. But you don’t come to this sector of France for action; the attraction is the good life: blue skies, sunshine, gorgeous scenery, friendly people, superb food and, oh yes, wine. What Vacqueyras lacks in liveliness it makes up in charm.
There are a little more than 1,000 people living in Vacqueyras, while there are 100 wineries, and heaven only knows how many small vineyards that supply their grapes to the four cooperatives within the village’s borders. That’s a very high vines-to-people ratio. Considering that some of those folks staff the inns and cafés, there are even fewer to tend the grapes.
Those cafés are another reason to visit Vacqueyras. There just aren’t that many other places to go for a meal in the area. We’ve found only one restaurant and a snack bar in nearby Gigondas. There are more in Beaumes de Venise down the road and maybe one or two in Seguret. Appetite will take you to Vacqueyras. And you will be well rewarded with local fare, including fish and seafood, lamb, fresh vegetables and fruits, and if you like an omelette aux truffes (truffle omelet).
“Downtown” Vacqueyras. Photo courtesy of Horizon Provence.
The streets are lined with homes made from local beige stone, under shady trees. In good weather you can sit at a café with some wine that may have been made within walking distance and just take in the views. Those views include the Dentelles de Montmirail to the east, the alpine foothills that seem to Vacqueyrasiens like lace. In the other direction are the seemingly endless high plains of the Terraces des Garrigues. Garrigues are the wild hillside herbs that abound in southern France and which add a distinctive, if hard to describe, character to the wines made there.
And that wine you might be sipping is most likely to be a powerful red, with Grenache and Syrah as the dominant grapes, with Mourvèdre and Cinsault used for blending. (See the accompanying article in this issue on one of our favorite Vacqueyras wineries.) Yes there are whites and rosés, but the name “Vacqueyras” inspires thoughts of deep red velvet. Unfairly, some of the other Côte du Rhône villages have grander reputations than does Vacqueyras, which enables you to buy desirable wines at lower prices than, say, Châteauneuf du Pape.
If you are wine tasting in the Southern Rhône – and at some point, you ought to – make sure that Vacqueyras is a stop on your route.