Rochioli (http://www.rochioliwinery.com/) sits on Westside Road in the Russian River section of Sonoma County. It’s not immediately apparent from the road, being set back behind a parking lot and some gardens that block the sight of the winery itself. Moreover, it’s just beyond a turn in the road, so it’s very easy to drive right by. So keep your eyes peeled as you drive along; this is a winery where you definitely want to stop, for a number of reasons.
It’s possible to have an enjoyable tasting experience in some places, even if the wine isn’t very good. Fortunately, that’s not a problem at Rochioli (pronounced ROE-key-OH-lee). The wines, particularly the Pinot Noirs and the Chardonnays, are top tier and have a reputation to back that up. In fact, one of the pleasures of a visit to Rochioli is to thumb through the heavy scrapbook they keep by the side of the bar where you can read all the letters from the White House expressing the thanks from past Presidents who have served and drunk their wines at state dinners. If you’re not a Head of State yourself (and who is?) it’s fun to pretend for a few minutes while you sip the wines.
The winery building is an unassuming redwood structure, pretty enough in its way but certainly not palatial. In the past, the interior wasn’t much to talk about either, but in recent years they have spruced it up with a nice zinc-topped bar and a pentagonal window overlooking the vineyards (of which more later). The look of the tasting room is still not the reason to visit, but it’s quite pleasant in a clean, spare way.
There are really two attractions: the wines, of course, and the view. Rochioli has made its reputation on estate-grown varietals and that estate is just outside the window. It is amazing to taste the same grapes grown in rock-throwing distance from one another and detect the differences. Since it’s the same wine maker from the same estate, the difference has to be attributable to the terroir. To be sure, it takes the skillful hand of the wine maker to draw out the essence of the terroir.
You are welcome to buy a bottle or two of these wines, if they have them available. And there’s the rub. Rochioli’s wines are for the most part allocated. You need to be on the The List (yes, they capitalize both words) to have access to them and then you are committed to buying some every year or you fall off The List. We’re told it takes at least five years to get there and they ask that you not call to check where you are on The List. They’ll tell you when the time comes. We are currently two years into our five.
As noted, the other great attraction at Rochioli is the view across their vineyards. The winery is on a slight rise and there are umbrella shaded tables at the rear. We have written before about wine tasting with a view and mentioned Rochioli; we’re happy to cite it again. This is a great please to have a wonderful lunch. The nearest places to pick up gourmet edibles (you wouldn’t want PB&J sandwiches, would you?) are the Dry Creek General Store and the Oakville Grocery in Healdsburg. Buy a bottle of one of Rochioli’s wines to go with your lunch (of course you have to if you want to use their picnic area), borrow the wine glasses from the tasting room) and have a couple of glasses of wine with your lunch. Be careful, of course, not to have too much.
We don’t know if this is how they’re dining at the White House, but it will feel like lunch time in Heaven when you follow our advice.