In the early years of the Roman Empire, the Emperor Augustus divided the city of Rome into fourteen regions. Only one was on the right bank of the River Tiber. It was called Transtiberim, or “across the Tiber” in English. Back then, it was a working class neighborhood, full of immigrant laborers who worked the docks where food and merchandise entered the city.
Today, Transtiberim is called Trastevere (pronounced tra-STEV-er-eh). It is still a very lively neighborhood that some call the Greenwich Village of Rome. Since we live in New York’s Greenwich Village, we find the likeness to be a bit stretched. The similarity is based on the fact that both have lively nightlife, with lots of caffés, restaurants and bars worth exploring.
Trastevere is fine to visit during the day as well. This section of Rome is well beloved by tourists and Romans, too. In daytime, you’re more likely to see tourists than locals. There are a few sights to see, but if you enjoy a place for simply hanging out, Trastevere is your best destination in Rome. The streets are old and narrow. The shops and kiosks are there for browsing and no one seems to mind if you don’t buy. And even if the caffes and restaurants blossom once the sun goes down, they are happy to welcome you for a lunch or an aperitivo in the early evening, the time for the passeggiata. This last is the uniquely Italian custom of taking a walk to see who else is taking a walk or, more important, so you can be seen talking a walk.
Chief among the sights is Basilica of Santa Maria in Trastevere. It might be the first place where Christians gathered to worship in Rome, although the church that is there now was “only” built in the 12th century. The foundations, so the archeologists say, date to the 3rd century. It’s an attractive enough basilica, though in the city with the most overwhelmingly beautiful churches in the world, it doesn’t leave a huge impression. There’s a popular fountain outside the church, where footsore tourists often relax without having to buy a meal or a drink.
But meals and drinks are the primary reasons to be in Trastevere. No matter how you get there – by taxi, bus or foot – you arrive at a large piazza with a gelateria and a restaurant. There’s no reason to stop at the first places you see, though. Continue down the main street, the Viale di Trastevere and you will find no lack of caffes, restaurants, gelaterias, shops and little nooks where there always seem to be people either arguing or in love, or probably a little of both. We offer no recommendations; half the fun is discovering.
Oh, wait, we do have one recommendation. The Italians take their gelato very seriously and the top gelaterias vie for recognition. On the Viale di Trastevere there is one called Fior di Luna (Moon Flower) that has won the all-Italy, all-world championship. Don’t miss it!