lgsjr – Power Tasting – The Wine Tasting Experience

Marchesi Di Grésy

The people of the Piemonte in northern Italy say that “Barolo is the king and Barbaresco is the queen”. If that’s so, then the Barbaresco wines produced at the Marchesi Di Grésy have a fair claim to being the king of the queens. We suppose a little background is necessary to substantiate that claim.

For starters, the full name of the winery is Tenute Cisa Asinari dei Marchesi Di Grésy. (That’s “Cisa Asinari Estates of the Marquises of Grésy” if Google Translate is to be believed.) The plural of Marquis is earned, because the French family, escaping the Revolution, have been making wine in this region since 1797. However, it is only in relatively recent years that the wines made from the Nebbiolo grape in this region became recognized as something special. Marchesi Di Grésy only started making wine under its own label in 1973 and it was only in 1980 that Barbaresco was granted DOCG status.

*A portion of the Martinenga vineyard, behind the Marchesi Di Grésy winery in Barbaresco.*

Marchesi Di Grésy makes wines other than Barbaresco. The Chardonnays and Barberas are quite nice, but that’s not the reason to visit. Right behind the winery is a steep hill, rounded in the form of an amphitheater. That’s where the Nebbiolo is planted, in a vineyard known as Martinenga. It faces south (a requirement for Barbaresco) and the soil and drainage are prefect for the Nebbiolo grape.

All of this explained in far more detail by a tour guide, who we found to be quite knowledgeable. The tour is offered in English, making it easier for Americans. As usual, visitors are shown the barrel room and pressing facilities, which for the most part are no different than other tours around Wine Country. One interesting note is the use of large casks of Slovenian oak for aging in addition to French barrels, 20% of which are new every year. (Other wineries use only aged, neutral oak barrels.) The wines are aged a year in the casks and two years in the barrels.

Of course, after the tour comes the tasting. This is where a visit to Marchesi Di Grésy excels. Experienced wine tasters are used to being told about the top wines but being served the lesser ones. Not so at this winery. The tasting begins with two Chardonnays and a Langhe Nebbiolo. The latter wine comes from the outer regions of the Martinenga vineyard that aren’t directly southern facing and thus can’t be called Barbaresco.

Then it’s on to the wines that can use that designation. [A little Italian wine naming convention is needed here. A single vineyard wine in Italy is called M.G.A., for Menzione Geografica Aggiuntiva (Additional Geographical Mention).] Since all the Barbarescos come from the vineyard just outside, they are all MGAs. You get to taste two harvests of their basic Barbaresco. (Some basic!) But within the vineyard there are certain parcels that produce exceptional wines, Camp Gros and Gaiun. Most wine tastings we have had in wineries around the world don’t open their top riservas. But at Marchesi Di Grésy, visitors really do get to sample the full range of the wines from a top producer.

We found the tour and tasting at Marchesi Di Grésy to be one of the most rewarding Wine Country experiences we have had. All that, and the Marchese even came in to say hello.

Roberto Sarotto, a Wine Bar in Alba, Italy

This is the latest in an irregular series of articles introducing readers to some of the great wine bars of the world. Some of them are in frequently visited cities, like Paris or London. Others are in wine making regions, such as the wine bar featured in this month’s edition.

Roberto Sarotto is a wine maker in the town of Alba, which is at the center of the Piemonte in northwest Italy. The region is the source of some of Italy’s finest wines. Signore Sarotto produces just about all of them: several Barolos and Barbarescos, Dolcetto and Barbera among the reds; Arneis, Gavi di Gavi and Chardonnay among the whites. There’s even a choice of rosatos (Italian for rosés), sparklers, Grappas and other wines.

But Roberto Sarotto is not satisfied to be only a winemaker. He has also opened a wine bar at a prominent corner of the Piazza Michele Ferraro, the primary square in Alba. In good weather people gather to taste his wines under the umbrellas outside. Of course, it does rain in Alba and these years the summer heat can be oppressive, so there are tables inside where the air conditioning accommodates tasters.

Almost all the wines on the extensive list are available for purchase by the glass or the bottle. The exception is the wines designated as “Bottiglie Museo”, which we Americans would call library wines rather than museum bottles. The prices range from a low of €7.50 for a glass of Mosto d’Uva, which is essentially non-alcoholic grape juice to a high of €36.00 for a well-aged reserve Barolo. There are plenty of wines by the glass to choose from that are €10.00 or less. Barolos and Barbarescos are on the list in the twenties and thirties of euros per glass.

*A typical aperitivo plate at Roberto Sarotto.*

But a tasting at Roberto Sarotto is more than wine. In the land of the aperitivo, no bar will serve you wine without a little something to munch. In most cases it’s olives or potato chips. At Roberto Sarotto, they serve you a repast. As illustrated here, you will receive an assortment of bites that may include pizza rustica, local cheeses and salamis, a ham sandwich and breadsticks. The actual selection varies from day to day but it is always ample. It certainly could be a lunch or an appetizer before dinner.

*A display of (some of) the wines available to try.*

There are positives to having such a wide selection from a single winemaker. Visitors can sit and have a vertical of an individual wine or a horizontal across multiple subregions of the Piemonte. However, despite all the different wines, they are all from the same winemaker; they only serve their wines, as in a tasting room not a wine bar. There is a stylistic similarity among them. If you have only one day in Alba, we recommend a visit to Roberto Sarotto. If you have a little more time, taste there but also try other wine bars for greater variety of styles.

This is a little gem of a wine bar, nestled in a major sector of Wine Country. And if you ask nicely when it’s not too busy, you can even get a tour of the cellar below the bar.

Wine Tasting Geology

We never studied geology in school. It just seemed boring: rocks, rocks and more rocks. Okay, it’s a noble science but it wasn’t our thing. So we guess we missed the lessons about how the type of soil affects the taste and aroma of wine. The lectures would have been okay; but we’re really sorry not to have done the lab work.

Now, when we go wine tasting, we don’t get down on our knees and run our fingers through the dirt. Since we skipped the class, we wouldn’t know what we were looking at anyway. But we have learned that there are some general characteristics of certain soils in different regions – or within a region – that differentiate one wine from another. It’s not that one is better or worse than another, which is a matter of taste, but it adds to our pleasure in tasting wine to know where it came from.

If you’d like, here are some tips.

*A display of soil types from the different vineyards that go into Conn Creek wines. Photo courtesy of The Napa Wine Project.*

Get the lay of the land. Start with understanding that softer soils produce softer wines and stonier, harder ones have more flavors that come from the rocks. Limestone and chalk are in the ground beneath the vines of Champagne; is there any softer wine? Sandy soil or sandstone creates lighter colors and less tannins. At the other extreme, where once there were volcanos, or where pressure created schist or slate, wines are dense and contain a lot of mineral and fruity flavors.
Find out what kind of soil is predominant where you are going. For example, the land south of the city of Bordeaux is full of gravel (hence the wines are Graves), which is little stones. To the east, clay and limestone predominate in the soil of St. Emilion. Think about it: Which of those wines are softer on the palate? In St. Chinian, the vineyards to the north are made of schist and are big and bold, while those to the south are of limestone and are much softer and rounder. California is big, so there are a lot of different types of soils. But in the prime locales of Napa Valley and Sonoma County, it’s likely to be rocky on the hillsides (naturally) and sandier in the valleys. For those who can distinguish between mountain and benchland wines, that’s a big part of the reason.
Ask your server. In many countries in Europe, there are rules about what you can grow, where you can grow it and which grapes can be used are very strict. So the soil will be very specific to individual vineyards. American winemakers have more latitude. Many California wines, for example, are made from single vineyards and it’s interesting to know what the underlying soil is like. Even more so, when winemakers blend juice made from grapes grown in different vineyards, they are trying to balance exactly the tastes and aromas of the different soil types. Your server ought to know how the soils affect the wines. If he or she pleads ignorance, try to get an answer from someone more knowledgeable.
See if there’s a soil display. Many wineries, in California and elsewhere, have displays of the different types of soil where they grow grapes. Take advantage of it and try to make the connection to the wines you taste. Again, a server who is an educator should be able to help you understand.

Milan’s Canal District

Milan is an ancient city, with Celts and Romans living there since well before the birth of Christ. Yet compared with Italian cities like Venice or Rome itself, there isn’t that much history on display. That’s because Milan was in the middle of so many wars over the centuries that a lot was destroyed. Thus, the Milan Olympics’ closing ceremonies were held in Verona’s Roman amphitheater, not in Milan.

Oh yes, Milan has it’s fabulous cathedral and the castle of one of its Renaissance ruling families. They’re well worth visiting but they’re not where you go for a good time. If you’re looking to mix your history with a little fun, the place to go in Milan is the Canal District, known in Italian as the Navigli.

First the history part. Venice is a lagoon; its canals are naturally made. But Milan isn’t close to water, so to supply the city they had to build canals. Way back in the 12^th century, the Milanese recognized that they needed to get supplies into the city in bulk. Horse-drawn carts couldn’t carry the necessary load anymore. So first they built the big canal, the Naviglio Grande, that connected them to the Lake Maggiore and the rest of Europe beyond. Other canals were built later on, but the one you want to know about is the big one.

Over the centuries the district where the canals are became run down, as trains replaced canal boats. Starting in the 1980’s, artists and designers started taking up space in the abandoned lofts and workshops along the canals. (Sounds like Soho in New York City, doesn’t it?) Where there are artists, there are galleries. Where there are galleries, there are cafés (or caffés, in this case). And so, little by little, the Navigli was reborn, this time as a tourist destination.

*Milan’s major canal at 6:30 on a summer evening.*

The funny thing is, there’s plenty of local Milanese there, too. Italy’s national sport isn’t soccer. It’s getting dressed nicely and taking a walk and looking around at all the other people taking a walk. There’s even a word for it, the passeggiata. And there’s no better place for a passeggiata than a long walkway with plenty of places to stop for a glass of wine or a Campari. Actually, two walkways, on either side of the canal.

You can certainly visit the Navigli during the day. By all means, drop into the galleries, have a little lunch, get a little sun. But you’re missing the best time of day. Starting around five o’clock, or a little later in mid-summer, the sunlight fades and the people come out for a stroll. You can be a part of the parade or you can sit on the side in a caffé and watch the parade go by.

There are many restaurants along the Naviglio Grande. Many are pizzerias or pasta joints just for the tourists. But there are some good restaurants as well. Most of them serve Milan’s specialties, Veal Cutlet Milanese and Risotto Milanese. These restaurants also have pastas with a bit more to offer than simple red sauce. One can spend hours there having a first aperitivo at one caffé and then on to the next caffé for another aperitivo and, and, and…with some snacks offered with them while watching the passeggiata.

Alba, Italy

The town of Alba, nestled in the Piemonte hillsides, is famous for making three things that give the world pleasure: wine, truffles and chocolate. Any place whose economy is based on those three is bound to be a happy one.

Let’s start with the truffles. Of course, they had grown near the roots of local trees from time immemorial. They were harvested by local farmers and their dogs (not pigs) and used as a flavoring but not as an expensive luxury item. Then, in the first part of the 20^th century, Giacomo Morra, the owner of a local hotel, realized that white truffles, Alba’s specialty, could be a big international business. He started the annual Truffle Fair that still occurs each October and attracts thousands of chefs and epicures to his town (and his hotel). Even if you visit Alba in the other eleven months, you’ll find truffle dishes on Albanese menus, if only the less-prized black ones.

The Piazza Michele Ferrero in Alba.

Alba’s chocolate is forever associated with the name Ferrero, maker of Nutella, Ferrero-Rocher and now Nestlé chocolate bars in the United States. The primary public square in Alba is the Piazza Michele Ferrero, named for the man who turned a small family confectionary into a global industrial enterprise, still headquartered in Alba. In recent years the piazza has been significantly renovated and is the focal point of any visit to the town.

And then, the wine. The local farmers had been raising grapes and making wine for centuries. The prevalent varietals were Barbera and Nebbiolo. The former was made by the farmers for their own use. It was thin and acidic. In the mid-20^th century came the realization that with better vineyard techniques and more sanitary winemaking facilities, Barbera could be an exportable product. Late in the century, Barbera started to be aged in French barrels and the fuller, fruitier, less acidic Barbera d’Alba entered the market. (There is also Barbera d’Asti, which is its more acidic cousin.)

Albanese gathering for an aperitivo in the Piazza San Giovanni Batista.

What the Albanese make is interesting, but it says nothing abouta visiting the town. In terms of art and architecture, it’s not particularly interesting, though there are some impressive churches. For those visiting for the purpose of wine tasting, Alba is the place to stay. It is 15 minutes’ drive from the villages of Barolo to the south and Barbaresco to the north. Numerous other even tinier villages to the south are also in the Barolo region and make that wine, a subject for a future issue of Power Tasting.

Alba itself is a sprawling town, with only the central historical center of interest to visitors. That core is graced with piazzas, churches, shops, restaurants, gelaterias and wine bars. Taking a few glasses in the wine bars and meeting with friends and neighbors appears to be the preferred Albanese sport, one that visitors can also indulge in. Two of the best wine bars, Roberto Serratto and 100Vini, are located on the Piazza Michele Ferrero; reviews will appear in future issues of Power Tasting.

Marchesi di Barolo

On the main street in the village of Barolo there’s a big yellow building housing the winery of the Marchesi di Barolo. Barolo as we know it today was first produced by this winery. Although it is named after the Marchesi, the real “inventor” was the Marchesa Giulia di Barolo, in the early 19^th century. Before then, the wines produced there were sweet and sparkling. She figured out that with cellaring in large casks, the Nebbiolo grape could be used for a deep-bodied, rich table wine. You can still see those casks on a visit to the winery because, amazingly, they are still in use. Alas, the Marchesi no longer owns it, but it is still owned and operated by a local family.

Visitors enter into a covered courtyard with a few touristy photo spots that belie the quality of the wines Marchesi di Barolo makes. There are numerous tours offered in various languages, so the sit-down tasting room is able to accommodate several tours at a time. The walls are completely covered with graffiti left by previous visitors, which again detracts from the wine.

*Huge wine casks from the 19^th century, still in use at Marchesi di Barolo today.*

Those quibbles aside, the tour and tasting are worthwhile. After all, this is where Barolo was born. The guides give quite a history lesson, explaining the importance of the Falletti family (that was the Marchesi’s family name), the love story of Tancredi and Giulia di Marchesi and, most importantly, how Barolo came to be. Seeing those ancient casks makes the history come alive. You also see that modern Barolo uses neutralized French oak barrels as well as the casks, to provide smoothness and to hasten the development time from harvest to bottle.

Depending on the tasting you choose, you can obtain a good understanding of Marchesi di Barolo wines and, in fact, of Barolo more generally. You try a Langhe Rosso, which is Nebbiolo but not from the vineyard areas designated for Barolo itself. They offer a Barbaresco for contrast, a few single vineyard Barolos and a Riserva. (Marchesi di Barolo also makes wines from other grapes, such as Barbera, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cortese, which were not included in our tasting.)

A few words about the vineyards: the term in Piemonte for single-vineyard wines is MGA (for Menzioni Geografiche Aggiuntive). There are more than 170 vineyards in the official Barolo region, but some are considered to be the best, including vineyards with names such as Cannubi, Brunate and Monprivato. So if you see Barolo Cannubi on a label, for example, you’ll know it’s an MGA from a top winery. Marchesi di Barolo offers four of them. A Barolo Classico is a wine made from grapes from multiple vineyards. These tend to be less complex and more approachable when young.

If the wines made today weren’t any good, then all the history of the Marchesi di Barolo wouldn’t matter. But they are quite good and the best of them are sought after around the world. So if you don’t know much about either the history or the Barolo wines, this is a good place to start.

Wine Tasting in the Piemonte

In the northwest of Italy there is a section called the Piemonte, which is Italian for “foothills”, in this case the foothills of the Alps. As is true almost everywhere in Italy, they make wine there. But the wines from this region are particularly well known, starting with Barolo, considered among the best the nation has to offer. There are other wines as well. Barolo and its close cousin Barbaresco are made from Nebbiolo grapes, as is Langhe Rosso, a perfectly fine wine that doesn’t meet the requirements for the Big Two. (Langhe is a local word for the Piemonte region.)

But as they say in the late-night commercials, that’s not all. In the reds, there’s wine made from Barbera grapes, centered in both the towns of Alba and Asti. There’s also wine from the Dolcetto grape, which is dry despite its name; the best comes from Dogliani to the south. There are some unique whites as well, including Arneis from the Roero subregion north of Barbaresco and Cortese that’s used in Gavi wines, made in the southern reaches of the Piemonte. You can also find Vermentino and the omnipresent Chardonnay.

Those of us who enjoy tasting wines in the places where they are made have so much to choose from in the Piemonte. We focused on visits to red wine producers, drinking whites with meals in the oppressive heat that is haunting Western Europe this year. Winery reviews will be in this and successive issues of Power Tasting.

The winemaking areas of the Piemonte are famed for their beauty. No matter how often you may have seen pictures of the region, including the one included in this article, nothing prepares you for the reality. It is stunning and there is a new vista to take your breath away around every bend in the road. (This is European Wine Country so there are many bends in the roads.) There are many villages on hilltops, built there in medieval times for security reasons. Seeing them across endless vines is rather special.

*The village of Roddi on a hilltop, across the vineyards. It’s much prettier from a distance than in the village itself.*

When not visiting wineries, you can sample local wines at the many wine bars that you find both in the towns, Asti and Alba, and seemingly every little village as well. The wine bars are especially popular in the early evening, aperitivo time. You can spend anything from a few euros for a simple Arneis to thirty or more for a grand Barolo. Better yet, every bar, no matter how humble, provides a spread of olives, cheese, salami and maybe a bit of pizza – to go with your drink. We found that having had a full lunch in a village after visiting a winery, the aperitivo offering was enough for dinner.

The winemaking area of the Piemonte is rather concentrated. Alba is in the center, and most of the wineries are only about 15 minutes’ drive from the town. Even the time to go from village to village takes no more than 20 minutes between them. It makes it easy to see, and taste, a lot in a short time.

Wine Tasting Appointments in the Piemonte

Wine tasting at the most exclusive wineries everywhere has long been on the basis of “By Appointment Only”. This applies to areas as widely spread as Napa Valley, Bordeaux and Tuscany. In the Piemonte, specifically relating to the wineries in Barolo and Barbaresco, they have never been open for casual passers-by to stop in for a taste of their wines. At one point, there were no organized tastings at all in the Piemonte; you got to try a few wines if you were in the trade or were a friend of the owner.

By the 1990’s wine tasting tourism had taken off around the world and Piemonte had become a destination region based on the quality of their wines. But the wineries themselves were – and for the most part, still are – small, family owned businesses that are in the wine business, not tourism. Serving visitors has become a profitable sideline, but no more than that. To control the distraction from their main business of winemaking and to contain labor costs, almost all wine tasting in the Piemonte is strictly by appointment. And the tastings can be quite costly.

Here are some tips to get the most out of a Piemonte visit, while working through the appointments.

Do some homework. This has long been advice given by Power Tasting, for wine tasting anywhere. But many Americans, even knowledgeable wine tasters, are not that familiar with specific Barolo and Barbaresco wineries, so some prior research is called for. Find out which wineries make quality wines and offer tastings that fit your budget. Then get on their web sites and make your appointments.
Don’t over-plan. Realistically, you can only visit one winery per day. That’s because almost every tasting includes a tour as well. These visits take at least an hour and half. But there are only a limited number of tours in English. So unless you’re fluent in Italian, there’s only one or two times you can visit.
Use the rest of your time wisely. Have lunch in the village. Visit a castle. Sit in a wine bar and sample the wines of whatever village you’re in. Enjoy the incredible views. Who knows when you’ll ever be in the Piemonte again; enjoy it while you’re there.

Take advantage of the exceptions. There are a few opportunities for wine tasting without an appointment. In the village of Barolo, there’s a tasting room of the Borgogno winery where you can just come in and order their wines by the glass. (Borgogno also offers tasting tours.) In the little village of La Morra, which also offers spectacular panoramic vistas of the Barolo vineyards, there’s the cooperative, called the Cantina Communale de La Morra. There’s a huge selection of lesser-known Barolos and other wines to try.
Try your luck. You can knock on the door of a winery, look very apologetic and say that you don’t have an appointment but you’d like to try their wine. You never know, they might pour you a little. It worked for us, at least once.

Marchesi di Barolo

On the main street in the village of Barolo there’s a big yellow building housing the winery of the Marchesi di Barolo. (Well, there is only one street in the village, but even so.) Barolo as we know it today was first produced by this winery. Although it is named after the Marchesi, the real “inventor” was the Marchesa Giulia di Barolo, in the early 19^th century. Before then, the wines produced there were sweet and sparkling. She figured out that with cellaring in large casks, the Nebbiolo grape could be used for a deep-bodied, rich table wine. You can still see those casks on a visit to the winery because, amazingly, they are still in use. Alas, the Marchesi no longer owns it, but it is still owned and operated by a local family.

Those quibbles aside, the tour and tasting are worthwhile. After all, this is where Barolo was born. The guides give quite a history lesson, explaining the importance of the Falletti family (that was the Marchesi’s family name), the love story of Tancredi and Giulia di Marchesi and, most importantly, how Barolo came to be. Seeing those ancient casks makes the history come alive. You also see that modern Barolo uses neutral French oak barrels as well as the casks, to provide smoothness and to hasten the development time from harvest to bottle.

Paradise Springs Winery

Paradise Springs is not your usual winery. For openers, it’s not one winery but two – one facility in Virginia and another in Santa Barbara, California. This piece is about the West Coast branch; we haven’t visited the one in Virginia (yet). It’s a young winery; they started making wine in Virginia in 2010 and in Santa Barbara in 2015.

When we refer to Santa Barbara wines, we often include those made in the area surrounding the city, Santa Barbara County. And in fact that’s where Paradise Spring’s grapes come from. But the tasting room puts the funk in Funk Zone, Santa Barbara’s hot-spot wine tasting area. It’s situated on a parking lot and it has a hole of miniature golf outside. Tables outside are on artificial grass; no vines are in evidence. If you look at the building from just the right angle, it’s quite attractive, but it’s hard to avoid looking at the food truck in the parking lot and the visitors playing golf. To be fair, the interior of their facility is well-appointed but we only discovered it after we had enjoyed a rather extensive list of wines that we tasted outdoors.

*The interior of Paradise Springs’ Santa Barbara tasting room.*

Our server – excuse us, he’s an Experience Manager – was knowledgeable but decidedly casual. Taken together, everything about Paradise Springs would have turned us off, since we’re rather conventional in our wine tasting tastes. The saving grace is that we really enjoyed the wines we got to taste.

Not surprisingly, the Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs come from Santa Rita Hills and the other reds are made from grapes from the much warmer Happy Canyon. (It’s amazing how different the climate can be, with both areas in Santa Barbara County.) Our tastes run towards red wines, so we focused on those. One of their outstanding Pinot Noirs is sourced from Sanford & Benedict vineyard, among the best known in the county. There’s also a Rhône blend, which Californians insist on calling a GSM (Ugh! Yes, the Rhône makes wines from Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre but they sometimes use other grapes such as Carignan and Cinsault. Why do West Coast vintners insist on making wine from just those three grapes?)

There was one wine that stood out to us. They call it The Roshi and it’s a Bordeaux-style Meritage. This one is made from both Happy Canyon and Virginia grapes. Paradise Springs proclaims it as the only bi-coastal wine and we’re sure that that’s true.

When we’re wine tasting in the city of Santa Barbara, we generally stick to the up- and mid-town wineries that are, in general, quite classy. We do go into the Funk Zone too, but with some trepidation. The wineries in that part of town have improved recently, so we can’t just skip it. If you’re in the mood for sipping some serious wine in a hippy-dippy atmosphere, we recommend you put paradise Springs on your itinerary.