lgsjr – Power Tasting – The Wine Tasting Experience

Barcelona: The Modernist Architecture

Barcelona is a wonderful, cosmopolitan city, sitting on the coast nestled among Spanish wine regions. Penedes, where sparkling Cava is made, is to the southwest and Priorat with its Garnacha wines, is just beyond. In fact if people make a trip anywhere in Spain for wine tasting, they would do well to make a stop in Barcelona, because of its many attractions.

In fact there are so many points of interest in Barcelona that it would take more than one article to talk about them all. So we will start with its architecture. The range of the city’s architecture is wide, with Gothic structures such as its cathedral to contemporary buildings such as the Torre Glóries. But the school of architecture known as Modernism was dominant in Barcelona in the late 19^th and early 20^th centuries, and one man was dominant among the Modernist architects: Antonio Gaudi.

The as-yet unfinished Sagrada Familia basilica.

It is virtually impossible to visit Barcelona and not see Gaudi’s masterpiece, the Sagrada Familia basilica. It towers above rest of the city and is now the tallest church in the world. We say “now” because it is still under construction. Gaudi began work on it in 1883 and it was only a quarter finished at his death in 1926. Its spectacular soaring towers and fanciful decoration make it instantly recognizable. Tickets are needed to enter the basilica, but it’s free to walk around it in wonderment.

If that were all that Gaudi had designed, he would be a noted architect. But there are Gaudi creations all around Barcelona. Among the most famous are the Parque Güell, an urban park full of whimsical creatures covered in bright tiles that has delighted children (and former children) for more than a century. Another is the Casa Batlló, with its colorful tiled front and its curved balconies. Crowds assemble in front of every Gaudi building just to gawk.

Gaudi is the most renowned Modernist architect but he was hardly the only one. One of the best ways to take it all in is a stroll along the Passeig de Gràcia, Barcelona’s central thoroughfare. There you will indeed find work by Gaudi, the aforementioned Casa Batlló. For instance, immediately next door is the Casa Amatller by Josep Puig. It is as angular and neo-Gothic as Gaudi’s work is free and curvilinear. The contrast is both eye-catching and representative of the diversity of Modernism.

There are classical colonnades, very Spanish grillwork and massive office buildings one beside the other as you walk along the Passeig. Some of them are occupied and functioning as intended, others are essentially museums because of their beauty. Sometimes, it’s enough just to sit on a bench and soak it all in, from the entirety of this fabulous street to ornate details that transform a building front into a work of art. And Barcelona’s almost perpetual blue skies make it all sparkle.

Using Artificial Intelligence for Wine Tasting

Artificial Intelligence seems to be everywhere these days, so why not for wine tasting? The one thing AI doesn’t have and never will is taste, in both senses of the word. Chatbots can’t taste wine and even if they could, they don’t have the good taste to tell the difference between fine wine and plonk. They can only provide information from what has been written about wine, not the beverage itself.

Photo courtesy of Wine Industry Sales Education.

Nonetheless, it can be a helpful tool if someone is planning or is actually on a wine tasting trip. Here are some tips that we have taken advantage of in our wine tasting adventures.

AI can suggest places to visit. This is particularly helpful if you are planning on tasting in a region of Wine Country where you’ve never been before or, even more so, if you know little or nothing about the wines made there. There’s no reason to let ChatGPT or Gemini determine where you should go, but they can shorten the time to get started in selecting wineries to visit.
Be careful what you ask. It all depends on the prompts you enter. If you ask, “What are the best wineries in Bordeaux?” you’ll be directed to the Premier Crus and their equivalents. That’s good advice, as long as you don’t mind the expense of only visiting the top wineries. If you ask “What are the best wineries for wine tasting in Bordeaux?” you’ll get a different list, still very fine wines to try, but less exclusive. And if you enter the prompt “What are the best values for money in wineries for wine tasting in Bordeaux?” you’ll be offered still another list of châteaux. All in all, it pays to think about what you want to do and be specific in your requests.
Don’t trust the answers you get. Or at least, don’t trust them blindly. AI chatbots have the nasty habit of just making things up. If the reply that you get mentions a winery you’re familiar with, all well and good. But if it’s a name you never heard of, that may be because it doesn’t exist. So go from the chatbot to the web sites of the recommended wineries and both verify the accuracy of the AI response and learn more about a potential visit.
Don’t rely on just one AI tool. Each one has a different algorithm and data model, so you’ll get different answers from Claude than from CoPilot than from Grok… It isn’t that one is more dependable than the others; it’s just that they’re different. It’s just like asking two friends for recommendations. They’re unlikely to be exactly the same. But note the recommended wineries that come up on multiple chatbots. That’s indicative that a particular winery will be a good destination.
And you can ask it about lunch after the tasting. If you don’t know about wines in a given area, you probably don’t know about restaurants, either. All the tips above apply. If you choose one, AI can give you driving instructions from a tasting room to a café.

Ramey Wine Cellars

Winemaking is part farming, part manufacturing and part art. A visit to Ramey Wine Cellars (https://www.rameywine.com) is very much involved with the latter two, but visitors don’t get to see anything about the farming aspect except a map of where they grow and source their grapes. Ramey’s winery is in an area with homes and office buildings, and Ramey looks from the outside like one of those offices. You won’t see lush vineyards and their location in Healdsburg isn’t even in the middle of the attractive area of town around the plaza.

Located where they are, Ramey doesn’t get any visitors who just happen to be walking by and tastings are truly by appointment only. The result is those who do make reservations are greeted and treated personally. We were met and escorted by Sam Tesconi, the Director of Marketing and Guest Relations. We were the only visitors at that time.

On entering their facility, one sees a large, open room with gleaming steel tanks and a variety of other equipment. There is also a ceramic aging tank that they’re very proud of. The barrel room, like the entire facility, is spotless. For educational purposes, there’s one barrel with a glass head, to allow visitors to see their Chardonnay resting on the lies, which they periodically shake up to maximize the contact with the wine.

Then it’s off to a tasting – a rather generous one – in one of the six private rooms reserved for that purpose. We were seated at a long wooden table where places were set with six glasses of wine, two whites and two reds. We sat down and Mr. Tesconi explained the makeup of each wine and the vineyards from which they came. Ramey makes wine from both estate and sourced grapes, mostly from Sonoma County but also in Napa Valley and Central Coast.

Ramey aspires to wine greatness and, while Power Tasting doesn’t review wines, we can say that we enjoyed what we tasted very much. They are best known for their Chardonnays, two of which were served. There was a notable difference between the wines from Sonoma Coast and Russian River. The reds were a Pinot Noir, a Syrah and two Cabernet Sauvignons. Each one had a distinctive character with some stylistic similarity. It would be hard to pick out one that we would call a clear favorite.

Most tastings feature recent releases with a few years from harvest. Rarely do we get to taste a winery’s top wines. In this case, while the white wines and the Pinot Noir were from the 2022 harvest, the reds all had at least seven years of aging and one, the Cabernet Sauvignon from Pedregal Vineyard in Oakville, was from 2014. We really felt as though we had been introduced to what Ramey wines were all about.

When we visited Ramey, we got a very informative, personable tasting of some rather good wines. It really didn’t matter that we had to forego the scenery.

Mass Producers

Sometimes in Power Tasting we have used the term “mass producers” with a bit of a sneer. That’s unfortunate, both because it’s a bit snobby and because it’s not fair. There’s no definition as to what constitutes “mass”. Sure, a vineyard that grows enough for 5,000 cases or less is small (or perhaps the winemakers would prefer the term “petite”). But does mass start with 10,000 cases? 100,000? A million?

*The Gallo factory in Fresno, California. Photo courtesy of the Fresno Bee.*

Yes, Gallo turns out 70 million or more cases of wine a year and they certainly are America’s largest producers. Most of the wines they make are intended for people who are not sophisticated wine drinkers. But Gallo also owns numerous labels and some of them make wine of a pretty high quality. One of these is J, producer of some pretty good sparkling wine that we have enjoyed. To be fair, these days we don’t buy wine under the Gallo label. But we sure did when we were younger.

But we do buy Moët & Chandon Champagne. They make 2.5 million cases annually and that’s still pretty massive. And that doesn’t include their Chandon bottlings from California and Argentina, which probably add up to the same number of cases. Of course, the best price we have seen for Moët & Chandon is around $45; there are Gallo wines that sell for less than five dollars.

The point is that quantity is not necessarily relevant to quality in judging wines. And for those of us who enjoy wine tasting, we should not avoid visiting the tasting rooms of the larger producers just as a matter of principle. There are several reasons for this.

One is that makers of lower priced wines often have higher-end lines as well. Perhaps there is no better example of this than Guigal in the Northern Rhône, that makes a Côtes du Rhône that sells for under twenty dollars and top-ends such as La Mouline, La Landonne, La Turque, and La Reynard that are among the most coveted wines in the world. In the US, Louis M. Martini (a Gallo label, by the way) sells a lot of their low-price Sonoma County Cabernet Sauvignon but are now making some quite respectable higher-end wines. And for that matter, the Sonoma Cab is a quite respectable wine for picnics and barbecues or Tuesdays.

Another reason to visit some of the bigger wineries is that even though they primarily sell inexpensive, lower quality wine, the owners often give their winemakers some latitude to choose the best grapes and make a more crafted wine that is sold only at the tasting room. We have had that experience once at Clos du Val in Napa Valley, which at that time was making 90,000 cases, surely enough to be called mass producers.

Finally, it might make sense to visit a tasting room of a mass producers because there are times that we might be looking for what we call “Tuesday wine”. Alas, we don’t open Mouton or Lafitte every night at our house; sometimes a simple red is just fine. And it helps to try them before we buy them.

To Buy or Not to Buy

As mentioned elsewhere in this issue, we often buy wine to take home when we go wine tasting. It seems like a simple proposition: We try it; we like it; we buy it. But in fact, there’s more that goes into the decision. If you, like us, are looking to purchase some wine on your trips, here are a few things to consider.

*Photo courtesy of Highway 29 Creative.*

Can you find it in wine shops near your home? There’s no point in lugging bottles around on a vacation or paying to ship them if you can just walk around the corner and buy the same wines. It’s more likely that lower-priced, mass-production wines will be available locally than top-end wines, even from the same producer. If you’re not sure, look up the web site of your favorite store or call them. You can also use an application such as winesearcher.com to find out if that wine is sold near you.
Are you a member of the winery’s club? One of the advantages of joining a wine club is that you get free tastings at the winery. Since we know we’ll enjoy the wines they serve (or we never would have joined in the first place) we generally take them up on the offer. But why buy wines that you know will be shipped to us a few months hence? That’s particularly true of wines that are restricted for sale only to members.
Is the wine only available in the tasting room? We have found that some producers that sell their wines widely also give their winemakers the chance to make a low-production wine from the best grapes reserved each year for that purpose. The amount made is so low that they can’t even send it to all their members and only make it available to visitors. So if you like it, you may want to take advantage of being there at the right time for a special deal.
Do you enjoy the wine as it is? This seems like a silly question, but wine changes over time. For example, we prefer to age fine wine from Bordeaux for at least eight years from the vintage. If we’re tasting in that region, we know the wines offered to us will be young and nowhere near the peak quality that gives the label it’s reputation. So we buy on the wines’ potential. We use the clef du vin to get an idea of what it’s going to be.
Do you have the patience (and the place) to age your purchases? If not, hesitate to buy wines that demand time. You might forego Cabernet Sauvignons in favor of Zinfandels that are often at their best a few years from the time the grapes were picked. As a general rule, white wines need less cellaring than reds, so for example if you find a Chenin Blanc that really appeals to you, buy that instead the same winery’s Syrah.

It Tastes Different

When we go wine tasting, we not only sip. We buy. Oh, not cases, but a bottle or two where we taste something particularly enjoyable. If we’re really impressed we join the winery’s club. Once at home, we put the wine in the rack to let it settle. We may not get around to opening the bottles for months or even years.

And when we do, we often seem to remember that the wine tasted different at the winery. We don’t have connoisseur-level taste memory, but we do have a sense of what we drank – and liked enough to buy – once before. What’s in our glass back home somehow just isn’t the same.

Of course, that’s as it should be. The wine we drank in a tasting room was, for the most part, recently bottled from a vintage at most three years before and more likely only two. The mere fact that we put the wine down in our “cellar” gave it more time for the tannins to blend in and maybe for some sediment to drop out. Age alone doesn’t make a wine great, but it does in many but not all instances, change it. The wines we tend to value the most are the ones that sit longest, so change is expected.

There are other reasons for the difference between what we tasted then and now that are more psychological. For one thing, it is rare that we buy the first wine we taste at a winery. That one is likely to be a white, which we purchase and drink less frequently. But the Sauvignon Blanc they often serve first at a winery primes our taste buds for the Cabernet Sauvignon or Grenache that we care about more greatly. At home, we don’t often open more than the bottle we are going to have with dinner that night, so we only have the one taste in our mouths. That doesn’t make it worse, just different.

Generally, that bottle at home is an accompaniment to a meal. In the tasting room, wine is the star; it’s why we are there in the first place. But when the bottle shares the table with, say, a roast beef there are several taste experiences vying for our tongues’ attention. There are times when the wine steals the show, but the experience of that wine is different than it was back where we bought it.

Moreover, the meal that the wine accompanies changes our perception of its taste. The California Cab or Italian Barolo is going to match up differently with a steak versus a pasta, for two examples. That’s really a good thing and it’s why some people are so interested in wine pairing. We’re less picky than other people, but we recognize that some bottles fit better with some meals than others. The reverse is also true: The choice of food changes our enjoyment of the wine.

So don’t fret if the wine you remember so well from that tasting trip a few years ago isn’t exactly what you thought it would be. Enjoy it for what it is at the winery and then again for what it is at your dinner table.

Monte Carlo

They don’t make wine in Monte Carlo, nor in the rest of Monaco as far as we know. But nestled between Northern Italy and Southern France, there is plenty of winemaking all around it. Monaco is a tiny enclave that would be relatively unknown if it weren’t for the fact that their prince married a glamorous Hollywood star. That was 70 years ago, and people still haven’t gotten over it. The cathedral, not one of Europe’s finest, is visited frequently just because they were married there.

Today, Monaco’s lax tax requirements attract superstars of sports, film and finance. The people who actually work there generally commute from France.

For a visitor who would like to do more than gamble, Monte Carlo does have its attractions. The port is full of eye-popping yachts, undoubtedly owned by the aforementioned tax evaders. We believe a few oligarchs also take advantage of berthing there. As a typical visitor, all you can do is look and envy for a little while.

*The Yellow Submarine in front of the Monaco Oceanographic Museum.*

Monte Carlo is a center of the study of oceanography, dating to 1910 when the then Prince Albert became interested in the oceans and founded the Oceanographic Museum that is still there in an ornate palatial building. Even if staring at sea-related objects is not your thing, it is worth seeing the building, perched on a cliff over the Mediterranean. Jacques-Yves Cousteau, famed for his voyages on the Calypso, was director of the museum for more than 30 years. One fun tidbit for a visitor is the yellow submarine (yes, that Yellow Submarine) in front of the museum.

*The narrow streets of Vieux Monte Carlo.*

We particularly enjoyed the sector called Vieux (“Old”) Monte Carlo. It is actually the historic town of Monaco, also known as Monaco-Ville or Le Rocher (the “Rock”). The latter nickname is fairly evident given its perch above the city and sea. The streets are quite narrow and are festooned with Monegasque flags and the colors of the Grimaldi’s the princely family. There is pleasure in wandering around, stopping here for a coffee, there for a glass of wine or beer, and dining en plein air at one of the numerous cafés in the sector.

Of course there is the casino. With gambling legalized in so many US states these days, the thrill of wasting money on the turn of a card is not so rare these days. But there’s nothing in Las Vegas or Atlantic City to rival the Old World grandeur of the casino in Monte Carlo. Baccarat has never been our thing, so once we went in and saw the beauty of the gambling den, we left.

Monte Carlo sits athwart the Italian and French Rivieras, which are reason enough to be in this part of the world…to say nothing of the vineyards inland. If you happen to be in that part of the world, it pays to visit “the Rock”, if only to say you’ve been there.

G&C Lurton Vineyard

We were spending a day tasting wine in the town of Healdsburg in Sonoma County. We often take a day away from driving through vineyards to take advantage of the tasting rooms (and restaurants) in town. As we walked along Healdsburg Avenue, the main drag there, we spied an awning advertising the names Ehret and Lurton, obviously a tasting room for two labels just below.

*Jean-Joseph explains the wines at Lurton.*

Ehret meant nothing to us, but Lurton did (well, might have). G&C Lurton makes some classified wines, specifically Dufort-Vivens, a second growth Margaux and Haut-Bages Liberal, a fifth growth from Pauillac. Were they actually offering tastes of these notable wines in the heart of California viniculture? Indeed they do…and more.

The explanation begins back in France. Gonzague Lurton (the G in G&C) decided to make American wine that would represent a combination of California terroir and Bordelais winemaking skill. He purchased land in Chalk Hill, just south of Healdsburg, and planted Bordeaux grapes there and called his vineyard Acaibo. He then decided to open a tasting room featuring his wines from both his growing locations. Tastings are also available at the vineyard, but we haven’t taken advantage of this.

Gonzague and his wife Claire (who also has a long history in winemaking) induced their nephew, Jean-Joseph Cogombles to work in the tasting room. Thus it came to pass that we were served both Bordeaux and Sonoma wines by a family member. Jean-Joseph is a young man who is surely destined for a life in wine; we found his wine knowledge to be at the sommelier level.

The tasting room is spacious, with tables scattered around it. There is also a bar at the back, and that is where we sat on a slow day (we were the only tasters present) and enjoyed the wines Jean-Jospeh served. Frankly, we preferred the French wines more, but it wasn’t a fair competition. Top tier Bordeaux is going to have an advantage over relatively newly planted American vines.

But the contrast was worth exploring. The Acaibo wine we tried was lush and aggressively forward, as befits a California Bordeaux blend (Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot). Let’s say simply that it has potential. Interestingly, the name Acaibo is a term in the local Native American language for three waters, mirroring the three grapes.

A visit to G&C Lurton in Healdsburg is not a typical Sonoma County tasting experience. We got to use our French, though Jean-Jospeh speaks clear if accented English. The opportunity to compare a famed winemaker’s products from two distant parts of Wine Country side by side is unique. We would certainly return on another trip to Healdsburg.

Oh, and about Ehret. They’re a Knights Valley winery with a bar of their own at right angles to Lurton’s. We never got to taste their wines but may on another occasion.

Sète, France

Nestled on the Mediterranean coast between Marseille and France’s Spanish border is a tiny village called Sète. It is a port for some cruise ships these days, but for the most part it is a simple fishing village with a lot of charm and history.

The Sétois have made their living from the sea from time immemorial. When you visit, you can’t avoid the sight of fishing boats along the quais in the main harbor. Nor can you miss all the restaurants that line the street facing the docks. Each one has a placard out front advertising the fresh fish and seafood that is available within. Sometimes we choose a cold meal of shellfish pulled from local waters. Sète is famous for its oysters. Of course, a warm meal such as a coquille St. Jacques is quite delicious too.

*One seafood restaurant after the other.*

You’ll want to wash all that marine life down with a white wine. No, they don’t make wine in Sète. You’d have to drive a mile or two inland to see the vines. A local picpoul is not very expensive but tastes just great on a sunny day in the south of France. And it seems as though every day is sunny in Sète.

Sète was established when the Canal du Midi was built in the 17^th century. Yes, there was a village there in Roman times, but the canal terminates in Sète, so commercial traffic reached the Mediterranean there. The canal is only used by pleasure boaters these days, but the port remains. It was a bombing target in World War II. The famous ship the Exodus left from Sète for Palestine with its weary Jewish survivors as passengers.

Today, smaller cruise ships make it a port of call. In part, that’s because of the attractiveness of the town itself. But also, it’s an entryway into the Languedoc. The medieval village of Pézenas is less than an hour’s drive away, as is the bustling city of Béziers. And, oh yes, there is wine tasting nearly everywhere inland.

For fans of French popular music, Sète has a particular attraction. The singer-songwriter Georges Brassens was born and lived his life there. His songs express humor, a little sexiness and the heart and soul of France at a difficult time in its history. Brassen’s love of Sète comes through in many of his songs as well. Just a bit away from the port there’s a museum dedicated to his life. It’s a worthwhile visit even if you don’t know Brassens or even like French popular music. His biography is so intertwined with the village that to know one is to know the other. At the museum there are many examples of the lives the Sétois lived and of how they think of themselves to the current day.

Sète is a good base for exploring the Languedoc. If somewhere else in the Languedoc is one’s home base, then Sète makes a fine day trip. Either way, it’s a small treasure to be cherished.

Barbieri & Kempe Wines

A visit to Barbieri &Kempe can seem like déjà vu. It can also be a little like double vision. Let us explain.

Barbieri & Kempe has taken over the space in downtown Santa Barbara that once housed the tasting room of Sanford Winery. (They also have a tasting room in Los Olivos, but we haven’t been there.) Even though Sanford (and now Barbieri & Kempe) were located in a high-end outdoor shopping mall, there was a sense of refinement and exclusivity when Sanford was there. Barbieri & Kempe brings a different vibe: friendly, inviting visitors to stay a while and enjoy the experience. Even though the interior is well-appointed, their terrace (with statues of laughing dolphins adding to the atmosphere) beckons to visitors.

*The terrace at Barbieri & Kempe. Photo courtesy of Breezit.*

Once seated, you find out that the Barbieri & Kempe tasting room isn’t for one winery, but two that share the space. Then you find out that Paolo Barbieri and Erin Kempe are a couple, with each producing and bottling wines under their own names. Paolo is also a Master Sommelier and began making wine in his garage. Erin worked in restaurants and met Paolo that way. She assisted him in his early winemaking efforts until she gained the confidence to put her own name on wines she produced. Dinnertime at their house must be interesting: “My wine tonight or yours?”

The wine tasting experience is enhanced by the possibility of ordering cheese with your pours. Barbieri & Kempe is also a cheese chop with a nice selection of California and international cheeses available as a tasting plate or to buy at retail. Perhaps in recognition of Signor Barbieri’s Italian roots, there are also Italian salamis for sale.

There’s an openness to the way tastings are offered at Barbieri & Kempe that says, “We are what we are and we are where we are. We hope you like our wines.” Overall, we did enjoy them, in particular the Grenache-Syrah-Mourvèdre blend from Ms. Kempe and in particular her Illumina Bordeaux blend. In general, they both cover a wide range of varietals. There is a fair amount of overlap in the grapes each of them uses for their wines, with both of them offering rosés, reds and whites.

We have often praised in-town tasting. You miss the sight of the vines, but you spend more time tasting and less time driving. The atmosphere at Barbieri & Kempe is very urban, with the hubbub of a shopping center and all the passers-by. Somehow, that seems to add to the experience, not detract. We found Barbieri & Kempe’s wines enjoyable, if not the most representative of Central Coast wines that we have tasted. But we at Power Tasting are not wine critics; we comment on the wine tasting experience. And we enjoyed our time sampling this couple’s wines at their Santa Barbara site.