The Beaujolais region of France (actually the southern end of Burgundy) makes wines that generate a lot of differing opinions. Some think they are little more than plonk; others, including us, say that there are many excellent Beaujolais, well worth drinking and some worth cellaring. These points of view arise because there is so much geographic variety in this sector.
If the wine is simple a Beaujolais, it can come from anywhere in the region and is likely made from less than the best Gamay grapes. A Village is better made, generally from grapes from the southern end of Beaujolais. But the wines known as crus are the top of the list. They come from ten specific communes or villages in the northern end of the region. They are Brouilly, Côte de Brouily, Régnié, Chiroubles, Fleurie, Moulin-à-Vent, Chenas, Julienas, St. Amour and Morgon.
There is a range of style and quality among the crus. Some are thin and acid; some are flowery (they don’t call it Fleurie for nothing), some are deep and rich. And then the last mentioned of these crus, Morgon, has six different sub-sectors, called climats, each of which has distinct characteristics. The most powerful and best known is the Côte de Py, in the middle of Morgon.
So wine tasting Beaujolais is a much more complicated matter than just driving into a section of France and visiting wineries. So let’s just focus on Morgon. Because it’s our favorite, that’s why.
The Cooperative in Villié-Morgon
Assuming you’re coming from the south, from Lyon, drive north on the A6, which is a relatively wide road. It’s about a 45-minute drive. Turn left when you see signs for Villié-Morgon, the only town in the region. It’s a nice enough little town but not one for which you ought to plan a special trip. But it does contain the Cooperative of Morgon and that is worth a stop. There you’ll learn more detail about everything contained in the first three paragraphs of this article. You’ll see exhibits explaining the history and culture of Morgon and can sample tastings from the various climats. It is fair to say that, as with most cooperatives in France, you won’t be offered the best wines of the AOC, but you will get an introduction to the differences within it.
Because it is centrally located, Villié-Morgon touches on four of the six climats. So staying within hailing distance of the town you can visit quite a few high-quality wineries without travelling very far. But understand that this is not California, where the wineries have elaborate tasting rooms. You well may find that even some of the better labels come from small vineyards and you will have a chance to taste in the front room of a farmhouse. Also, if you are there in the vendanges, harvest-time, they may be too busy to offer you a taste at all.
Harvesting the Gamay grapes that will soon be Beaujolais. Note how low they keep the vines in this region.
Villié-Morgon has a few cafés and bistros, but nothing of any note. If you’d like to have a truly memorable French country meal, we recommend you drive through the Côte de Py following the main (only) road until you come across signs for Le Restaurant Morgon (http://www.restaurantlemorgon.fr/) . It won’t set you back much; you can avail yourself of their wonderful cellar full of Beaujolais of a quality you may never have known of; and the food is fabulous. Leave room and some wine for the cheese course.