The word caliza means limestone in Spanish. In winemaking, it means soil that is rich in this mineral so it adds depth and minerality to the grapes grown in it and to the wines made from those grapes. It is also the name of a winery in Paso Robles where we guess the dirt is full of caliza, or limestone. It is not exactly an easy winery to find. You drive down Route 101 from downtown Paso Robles, turn off on Route 46 and then search for Anderson Road. Up at the end of it is Caliza.
We happen to like their wines and have joined the Caliza wine club. They specialize in Rhône grapes and make an excellent Syrah and a wine called Azimuth, a typical Rhône blend of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre. It’s our favorite of their wines. They also throw in some oddball grapes including Tempranillo and Primitivo. One thing can be said about their wines in general: they’re not for the faint of heart. They are all power hitters and approach or surpass 15% alcohol. Eat a hearty breakfast before visiting.
The tasting room is in a hacienda-like building nestled at the bottom of vine-covered hills. The room itself is open and airy, very bright and sunny, with a long bar. Like many wineries in the Paso Robles region they are open only Friday through Sunday and by appointment on the other days. You will be served a white or two, maybe a rosé and then you can get into the reds. If you’re lucky, your server will be Carl Bowker or his wife, Pam, who own the winery and make the wine.
Theirs is the kind of story that those of us who enjoy visiting Wine Country always dream about. Carl was a businessman who grew tired of the nine-to-five grind. They visited Europe and became dedicated wine tasters themselves. Carl attended some winemaking courses and, lo and behold, bought some land, planted some grapes and they became wine people. If you don’t get to meet Carl or Pam, don’t worry; their story is printed on the walls. But if you do meet them, especially on a quiet day, they’ll be glad to tell you their story.
In some ways, the best part of a visit to Caliza (other than the wine, of course) is the absence of Napa-style excess. The tasting room is pleasant but is not likely to be featured in architecture magazines. Your experience there is about the wine, not the building and the grounds. The people are friendly and have the time and interest to talk with you and explain their philosophy of winemaking and the nature of their wines. In other words, Caliza offers a wine tasting experience that focuses more on the taster than on their own magnificence.
If you’re going to Paso Robles, we definitely recommend that you make Caliza one of your stops. And say hello to Carl and Pam for us.