A Day in Champagne

We have gone to the Champagne region for wine tasting in the past.  The drive from either of the Paris airports seemed a lot easier on the map than behind the wheel.  Once you’re there, the countryside is wonderful and the two major cities, Épernay and Reims are fascinating.  And, of course, there’s all that sparkling Champagne to try.  But let’s say you don’t have the time for several days of wine tasting or you have other things you want to do in Paris.  Luckily, there are ways to enjoy a day trip from Paris to Champagne.

Don’t even think of driving.  It’s a minimum of 2 and a half hours trip, much of which is spent navigating the streets of Paris as you leave town.  And don’t forget, you have to drive home after a day of imbibing. 

Pol Roger on the Avenue de Champagne in Épernay.

A better idea is to take a train.  There are several each day from Paris to Reims that get you there in only 45 minutes.  It takes longer to go to Épernay, an hour and twenty minutes on the fastest trains.  All these trains leave from the Gare de l’Est, which is about twenty minutes by taxi from Montparnasse and longer from the Right Bank.  (A friendly tip: the croissants at the coffee shop at the Gare de l’Est are delicious and are served warm.)

Yes, it takes longer to go to Épernay, but it is an easy walk to the Avenue de Champagne with one Champagne house after the other, many of which can be visited without a reservation.  If you want to tour the cellars at the bigger names, such as Moët and Chandon or Perrier-Jouet, you will need to book in advance.

The Chagall windows in the Cathedral of Reims.

On the other hand, Reims offers other attractions besides wine tasting and has many more spots for a quality lunch while you’re there.  The cathedral at Reims is an architectural wonder and the windows painted by Marc Chagall shouldn’t be missed.  There are a few Maisons in walking distance of the train station and Mumm is in the center of town.  You’ll need a taxi or an Uber to get to most of the better known Champagne houses.  Three of them are in close proximity to each other: Taittinger, Veuve Clicquot and Pommery.  You can walk easily from one to the other.  But you’d better get your reservations closely aligned, with at least an hour and half at each.  Lunch is an issue as well in that part of town.  There are places to eat, but they’re all rather elegant and pricy.

Unfortunately, the last return trips back to Paris don’t allow a lot of time for a nice dinner, with the last trains leaving at 7:30-ish.  However, you do have the chance to keep on with Champagne tasting.  La Banque in Épernay and Le Parvis in Reims offer you the chance to compare Champagnes side-by-side and still make your train.  Be careful, though.  If you’ve been tasting all day, either restrain yourself at the Maisons or take it easy at the Champagne bars.  If nothing else, you don’t want to miss your train!

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