Among the things that any first-time to Madrid must do is to visit the Plaza Mayor. That’s sort of like saying that first-time visitors to New York City must see Times Square. There’s no way any visitor would miss it. It is the principal meeting place in Spain’s capital city and it has had an interesting history.
The Plaza Mayor in Madrid, at night.
There has been a marketplace in that spot since the 15th century. It wasn’t always called the Plaza Mayor (Major Square in English). The name has changed in the winds of Spanish politics; for instance it was called Plaza de la Constitución off and on depending on the strength of the monarchy. It has stayed as the Plaza Mayor only since the end of the Spanish Civil War of the 1930s, but it seems the name will stick.
Today it is a grand square completely surrounded by four-story buildings. Mostly they are occupied as private residences, except for the plaza-level, which is almost completely commercial. The plaza is a magnet for tourists and so it is filled with people every day, all year long. Where there are tourists, there are sure to be vendors spreading a blanket and selling handbags, tchotchkes and Real Madrid tee shirts. There are also acrobats and street musicians, about the same as may be found in almost every popular tourist destination, worldwide.
That said, the Plaza Mayor is a marvel of architectural harmony, designed as we know it today by Juan Villanueva, who also was the architect of the Parado museum and other grand buildings in Madrid. In the middle of it all is a statue of the Spanish king Philip III on horseback. It is quite a pleasure to sit under one of the restaurant umbrellas surrounding the plaza, sipping a glass of wine and munching on tapas. Just taking in the hubbub is a part of the Madrid experience.
It is also worth exploring the shops that surround the Plaza Mayor. There is an arched portico around the square and the shops are easy to access, even if the day is hot or rainy. Many of them are full of tacky souvenirs, but there are some interesting ones, such as the hatmaker and vendor of Spanish almonds.
The Mercado San Miguel. Photo courtesy of Tourism Madrid.
Just outside the northwest corner of the Plaza Mayor is the Mercado San Miguel. It should be experienced on an empty stomach. It was an actual food market for nearly a century, until the growth of supermarkets rendered it obsolete. In 2009 it was re-opened as a mammoth gourmet tapas food hall. The game plan for a visit there is to walk around and locate the food to buy. This is difficult because everything looks (and is) delicious. One person hunts down some empty stools at the long tables that are located throughout the hall. Another person finds the bar and purchases glasses of wine. Then they take turns buying portions to share from the various kiosks. When sated – this can take hours – they repair to the bar and finish off the meal with their grand selection of sherries.