We almost didn’t visit Narbonne. We were in southwest France to soak up village life and to visit vineyards. Why spend time visiting a second-tier city that wasn’t on the list of “must-see” places in the country. But it was only a short drive from where we were staying and so why not? It would have been a big mistake to miss Narbonne.
Located in the heart of Languedoc Roussillon, there are indeed many vineyards in the general area as well as some famous beaches (Narbonne Plage) nearby. The city manages to contain ancient monuments, 19th century splendor and modernity quite well together.
Gargoyles on Narbonne’s cathedral.
The best of the ancient buildings are a gothic cathedral and an almost as old bishops’ palace, so we went to take in a bit of medieval culture. And indeed, the cathedral is impressive. There had been others on the same location and in 1268 the Pope decided that the town was safe enough from heretics to build a new one. Most of it was erected, but they never quite got around to finishing it. What they did build is quite an eyeful, especially the gargoyles around the top.
By all means see the old stones, but leave time for the more contemporary, less touristy attractions Narbonne has to offer. For us, foodies that we are, the topmost among these is the grand indoor market, Les Halles de Narbonne. Like other markets in France, you’ll find a cornucopia of fruits and vegetables bursting with color and flavor. (If you’re there at the end of summer, eat mirabelles, small green plums that are the sweetest we’ve ever tasted and you can’t find them in the United States.) There are beautiful meats, of course with butchers who will slice you a steak of Aubrac beef. And the cheese counters are a tour of French pastures.
But not everywhere can you find the kiosk that specializes in tapenades, the olive and anchovy spreads beloved in the south of France. Or the fellow who will sell you cassoulet in an earthenware bowl for you to heat it up in. Or counters of tapas bars (Narbonne is quite close to Spain) where the locals meet on weekend mornings for snacks and wine.
A procession of winemakers through Les Halles de Narbonne during the Fête des Vendanges
Should you be there on the second Saturday of September, the local winemaking fraternities hold their annual Fête des Vendanges (harvest festival). You can see the members of these wine societies parade through the village and into the Marché, striding with a few instrumentalists among the food stalls. A grand feast is held outside on long picnic tables, with food available from many of the stalls inside. You feel as though you were just transported to the Middle Ages.
Along the Canal de la Robine in Narbonne
If you’d like to sit in a bistro along a tree-shaded canal, Narbonne offers many of them as well, along the Canal de la Robine that crosses the city. In warm weather, which is most of the year, there are outdoor tables in front of every restaurant. Your only problem is choosing which one.
Finally, leave some time just to walk around. There are narrow medieval streets, leafy boulevards and lots of charming places to stop for a coffee. Avail yourself of this little French jewel of a city, and then drive just outside of town and visit the vineyards.