We recently received a newsletter from Etude, a winery where we’re members, on the subject of Pinot Noir clones. The subject of clones seems to be getting more attention recently, and this item further piqued our curiosity.
Pommard 5 clone of Pinot Noir. Photo courtesy of Etude Winery.
First of all, what are clones in the world of wine? If we were vinicultural scientists, we could give a long, complicated answer but we are just humble wine tasters. Simply put, a clone is a variety of a particular grape that is chosen by a vineyard owner because of its characteristics of taste, aroma or color. It is propagated by grafting a cutting from a desired vine onto existing rootstock. (That’s how cuttings from American vines saved French wineries from phylloxera in the 19th century.)
Winemakers select specific clones to emphasize certain qualities that benefit from the terroir of their vineyards. Also, some clones are more prolific than others, so a particular clone may be chosen just for the volume of the harvest. So, for example, the qualities of the Pinot Noir Dijon 777 clone are very dependent on the individual vineyard, whereas the Dijon 115 clone is most likely to produce a complete wine, without blending, and is thus the most widely planted (at least in the US).
Note that Dijon is a city in the Côte d’Or in Burgundy as is Pommard, which also has numerous clones. This is important because the type of wine we drink today has been made in Burgundy longer than anywhere else. With all that time, more clones have been cultivated for Pinot Noir than for any other varietal. Yes, there are clones of just about every other grape, but the differences between two Cabernet Sauvignon clones is nowhere near as great as between, for example, a Dijon and a Pommard clone of Pinot Noir.
Part of the reason that clones are receiving more attention these days is undoubtedly the increasing sophistication of wine lovers willing to pay the cost differential for a single clone wine. But we think that what is driving the discussion even more is that climate change is creating stress for some clones more than others. As a general rule, Pinot Noir grapes do best with warm afternoons and cool nights. Evidently, Dijon clones are more susceptible to warming temperatures – really hot afternoons and warmer temperatures overnight – than are Pommard clones. For a vintner who has heavily planted, say, Dijon 115, the prospect of ripping out vines and replanting his vineyard can be very daunting.
Increasingly, vineyard managers are planting so-called “heritage” clones with names like Swan or Calera. They seem to be doing better in warmer climates than the more widely planted grape clones. Etude’s Heirloom Pinot Noir is made from these clones.
What does this mean to the average wine taster? On the one hand, not much; it’s only what’s in the glass that counts. On the other hand, recognizing that certain clones produce flavors and aromas that one prefers (or not) can help in selecting wines that meet his or her tastes.