Milan is an ancient city, with Celts and Romans living there since well before the birth of Christ. Yet compared with Italian cities like Venice or Rome itself, there isn’t that much history on display. That’s because Milan was in the middle of so many wars over the centuries that a lot was destroyed. Thus, the Milan Olympics’ closing ceremonies were held in Verona’s Roman amphitheater, not in Milan.
Oh yes, Milan has it’s fabulous cathedral and the castle of one of its Renaissance ruling families. They’re well worth visiting but they’re not where you go for a good time. If you’re looking to mix your history with a little fun, the place to go in Milan is the Canal District, known in Italian as the Navigli.
First the history part. Venice is a lagoon; its canals are naturally made. But Milan isn’t close to water, so to supply the city they had to build canals. Way back in the 12th century, the Milanese recognized that they needed to get supplies into the city in bulk. Horse-drawn carts couldn’t carry the necessary load anymore. So first they built the big canal, the Naviglio Grande, that connected them to the Lake Maggiore and the rest of Europe beyond. Other canals were built later on, but the one you want to know about is the big one.
Over the centuries the district where the canals are became run down, as trains replaced canal boats. Starting in the 1980’s, artists and designers started taking up space in the abandoned lofts and workshops along the canals. (Sounds like Soho in New York City, doesn’t it?) Where there are artists, there are galleries. Where there are galleries, there are cafés (or caffés, in this case). And so, little by little, the Navigli was reborn, this time as a tourist destination.
The funny thing is, there’s plenty of local Milanese there, too. Italy’s national sport isn’t soccer. It’s getting dressed nicely and taking a walk and looking around at all the other people taking a walk. There’s even a word for it, the passeggiata. And there’s no better place for a passeggiata than a long walkway with plenty of places to stop for a glass of wine or a Campari. Actually, two walkways, on either side of the canal.
You can certainly visit the Navigli during the day. By all means, drop into the galleries, have a little lunch, get a little sun. But you’re missing the best time of day. Starting around five o’clock, or a little later in mid-summer, the sunlight fades and the people come out for a stroll. You can be a part of the parade or you can sit on the side in a caffé and watch the parade go by.
There are many restaurants along the Naviglio Grande. Many are pizzerias or pasta joints just for the tourists. But there are some good restaurants as well. Most of them serve Milan’s specialties, Veal Cutlet Milanese and Risotto Milanese. These restaurants also have pastas with a bit more to offer than simple red sauce. One can spend hours there having a first aperitivo at one caffé and then on to the next caffé for another aperitivo and, and, and…with some snacks offered with them while watching the passeggiata.